The Syrian Baker Who’s Bringing the Middle East’s Most Famous Ice Cream to California |

Bakdash, the most celebrated ice-cream parlor in the Middle East, is a hundred-and-thirty-eight-year-old shop located in the al-Hamidiyah Souk, an Ottoman-era marketplace in Damascus’s Old City. Men in butcher caps, white gloves, and coats staff the long, narrow space, serving…