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Memory is a powerful magnet, even when it’s not our own. Something invariably draws us to nostalgia, to the soft focus of hindsight, to the comforting closure of a narrative found in the rearview mirror. This is especially true in a restaurant, where you are immersed in history, smelling it, savoring it. But despite its appeal, nostalgia is a difficult emotion for a restaurant to tap into, and a risky one to rely on. Storytelling can attract guests, create atmosphere, but it is no substitute for quality: a restaurant must be good in itself, not just a stage for telling stories to friends or for repeat visits.
Martini.
Spaghetti with meatballs.
JR & Son, which opened in Williamsburg in May, at first glance seems like a powerful exercise in throwbacks. It occupies the former bar of the same name, a modest 1970s institution that in turn occupied the site of the venerable Charlie's Bar, which opened in 1934. Now owned by restaurant duo Michelle Lobo and Scott Hawley, and restaurant designer Nico Arze, the place has been recently renovated but still feels like it's captured the feel of its day. There are red leather booths and checkerboard floors, and the wood-paneled walls are adorned with black-and-white photographs of celebrities living and long gone. Ceiling fans spin lazily. The air is warm and sweet with the scent of oregano and red wine.
You expect to get certain dishes in such a place: Italian cuisine
Sourse: newyorker.com
