Ukrainian restaurateur Mykola Oleksiv continues to develop the Ukrainian restaurant«ANASTASIA» in Rome, near the Colosseum, while promoting Ukrainian cuisine abroad. In this exclusive interview, he talks about why Italians are falling in love with borscht and deruny, how the dream of opening a Ukrainian restaurant in Rome was born, and why Ukrainian restaurants abroad have become much more than just business.
— Mykola, why Rome? Why did you decide to promote Ukrainian cuisine here?
Honestly, it was a very old dream. I remember visiting Rome for the first time many years ago, and the atmosphere of the city impressed me so deeply that I thought one day there had to be a Ukrainian restaurant here. Back then, it sounded almost impossible, but the idea stayed with me for years.
For me, Rome is not just a tourist city. It is the center of world culture, history, and gastronomy. I wanted Ukrainian cuisine to be represented here as well. I wanted tourists, after trying pasta or pizza, to taste borscht or varenyky and realize how rich and flavorful Ukrainian cuisine really is.
I wanted Ukrainian food to be represented not somewhere hidden only for Ukrainians, but right in the center of Rome, where people from all over the world could discover it.
— Was it difficult to promote Ukrainian cuisine in Italy, a country with such a strong culinary culture?
Of course, it’s a challenge. Italy is an incredibly gastronomic country, and people here understand products, flavors, and presentation very well. But that’s exactly what makes it interesting.
I realized one thing very quickly: if you do things honestly and with quality, people feel it immediately. We are not trying to remake Ukrainian cuisine for Italians. We keep it authentic while presenting it in a modern and stylish way.
Foreigners’ reactions still surprise me sometimes. Borscht creates the strongest emotions because people don’t expect a soup to have such a rich and deep flavor while also feeling comforting and homemade.
— Which Ukrainian dishes became absolute favorites among guests?
Honestly, the top dishes remain the same — borscht, deruny, and Chicken Kyiv. Those dishes work every single time.
Deruny became a real discovery for many Italians. They love potatoes, but they had never tried anything quite like this before. Chicken Kyiv also feels familiar to Europeans because of its crispy crust and juicy texture, but at the same time it still feels unique and different.
Varenyky and stuffed cabbage rolls are also very popular. Tourists often come in groups and order several dishes at once because they want to experience Ukrainian cuisine more fully.
One of my favorite moments is when people try deruny for the first time and genuinely ask why they had never eaten them before.
— Is there a difference between Ukrainian guests and foreigners?
Yes, and it’s actually very interesting to observe. For Ukrainians, these dishes are emotional. They are connected to home, childhood memories, and family traditions. Especially now, during the war, food carries even more meaning.
Many Ukrainians come in and say that borscht or varenyky make them feel closer to home again.
For foreigners, it’s a completely new experience. They are very curious and ask a lot of questions. They want to know the stories behind the dishes, the ingredients, and the traditions connected to them.
Italians are very emotional people. If they like a dish, they show it immediately, and that energy is incredibly inspiring for us.
— How important is it today to open Ukrainian restaurants abroad?
Today, it’s no longer only about business. It’s about Ukraine itself.
Through food, people discover our culture. Very often foreigners become interested in Ukraine for the first time after trying Ukrainian dishes or meeting Ukrainians abroad.
I believe every Ukrainian restaurant outside the country has become a small cultural representation of Ukraine.
And when someone says after dinner that they want to visit Ukraine after the war, it means a lot to me personally.
— What is the most emotional part of this work for you?
Probably people’s reactions. Seeing genuine emotions from guests becomes a huge motivation.
Sometimes tourists photograph the dishes, record videos, ask for recipes, or come back again with friends. Ukrainians abroad sometimes even become emotional when tasting familiar food after a long time away from home.
That’s when you realize food is much more than simply food.
I want Ukrainian cuisine to be associated around the world not only with tradition, but also with quality, style, and modernity.